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April 12, 2016September 2, 2016

Exploring The Wonders of Bagan

This post is part of a series called Myanmar 2016
Show More Posts
  • Yangon, And First Impressions of Myanmar
  • Kalaw, In The Shan State of Myanmar
  • Hike From Kalaw to Inle Lake
  • Inle Lake and Indein Village
  • Hsipaw, And a Failed Train Ride
  • Pyin Oo Lwin, And Another Failed Train Ride
  • Mandalay, Inwa, And Amarapura
  • Boat Ride From Mandalay to Bagan
  • Exploring The Wonders of Bagan
  • In Review: 26 Days of Backpacking in Myanmar

If you google images of “Myanmar”, you’ll see a lot of pictures of Bagan and it’s 2,200 temples and pagodas. It is the image that most people (myself included) had of the country before visiting.

After arriving in Bagan by boat, we were approached by a lot of taxi drivers at the jetty. We might have been overcharged by our driver (5,000 kyats, 4 USD) which ended up not being a taxi driver but a bicycle rider. His bike had a sidecar with two passenger seats, facing away from each other. He loaded ours backpacks on the bike, and with Jenni and I, he was probably carrying about 150 kilos. At one point while going a bit uphill, a lady came to help by pushing the bike from behind.

The many temples and pagodas of Bagan are surrounded by three towns. Nyaung U is the busiest and more budget friendly. While Old Bagan and New Bagan have the most expensive hotels. We stayed in Nyaung U.

The hotel we checked into (Innwa Motel) was great. Very modern, new facilities, and a pretty decent breakfast buffet. Not cheap at 30 USD per night for a double bed room (by Myanmar standards, although Bagan tends to be more expensive than the rest of the country), but at least we were paying for quality.

Over the next three days we explored the area for many hours while using a map bought at the hotel (for 1,000 kyats, 0.80 USD), and a rented electric scooter.

The biggest and most popular temples/pagodas were always full of tourists.

Htilominlo Temple, Bagan
Htilominlo Temple, Bagan
Dhammayangyi Temple, Bagan
Dhammayangyi Temple, Bagan

For our first sunset, we went to Shwesandaw Temple, perhaps the most popular one for that purpose. While the views were great, it was way too crowded for it to be enjoyable.

Shwesandaw Pagoda, Myanmar
Shwesandaw Pagoda, Myanmar
Views from Shwesandaw Pagoda, Myanmar
Views from Shwesandaw Pagoda, Myanmar

For sunrise the following two days, we went back to great spots that we had previously visited. While there were a few tourists there (and no other people at all on the third morning), it was the type of quiet experience we were looking for. For me, sunrise and sunsets are a sort of spiritual experiences, but when I’m surrounded by people talking loudly or too preoccupied with taking the perfect selfie, it ruins the mood for me.

Sunrise in Bagan, Myanmar
Sunrise in Bagan, Myanmar
Sunrise in Bagan, Myanmar
Sunrise in Bagan, Myanmar
Sunrise in Bagan, Myanmar
Sunrise in Bagan, Myanmar
Sunrise in Bagan, Myanmar
Sunrise in Bagan, Myanmar

We found it much more enjoyable to go off the beaten path (i.e. off the main paved roads and onto the dirt roads) and explore the temples/pagodas not reachable by large tour buses. Some of these temples/pagodas were pretty well maintained, but others were a little run down, making them even more interesting.

Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar

Many of these had staircases in not-so-obvious locations that allowed you access to the upper floors. Some of these stairways were very low and narrow, and not recommended for claustrophobic people.

Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar

We were mostly alone at most of these places. We felt like explores who never knew what we would find. For example, the Buddha statues in each pagoda/temple were all different.

Sulamani Temple, Bagan
Sulamani Temple, Bagan
Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar

Sometimes there would be art on the walls. Sometimes we would even find wasp nests.

Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar
Hornets nest, Bagan, Myanmar
Hornets nest, Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar

For sunsets on the last two days, we also found nice quiet spots with good views.

Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar
Sunset in Bagan, Myanmar
Sunset in Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan, Myanmar

It was too bad that we were running out of time in Myanmar. If we didn’t have only a few days left on our 28-day visas, we would have stayed way longer than three days in Bagan. So many times while exploring the temples I would look around and ask myself how places like these even exist on earth. I liked it so much that I’m pretty certain that Bagan is my new favorite man-made place I’ve ever visited.

I hope it doesn’t get ruined by tourism. I hope it stays this way for a long time.

Posted in Travel, Photography, Round The World Trip, Asia, Myanmar
3 Comments
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   Boat Ride From Mandalay to Bagan
In Review: 26 Days of Backpacking in Myanmar   

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Comments (3)

  • Hazel Mae Abello March 6, 2017 at 2:34 pm Reply

    how about visitng Philippines?

  • Ulli July 3, 2017 at 12:34 am Reply

    Hey,

    nice post about Bagan! I also think that exploring the small temples was even more amazing than touristic big ones.

    • Kevin July 7, 2017 at 4:28 am

      Yeah, for sure. I loved not knowing what I would find inside. I could have spent weeks there.

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kevinstravel

Rough race and not the result I was looking for. W Rough race and not the result I was looking for. Was targeting a sub 2:55 but finished in 3:31. It felt hard from the start and had stomach issues later on. Still proud of the effort and finish.
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