Seattle, Washington

Part of the Pacific Northwest Trip Journal
Previous entry: Amtrak Coast Starlight (Los Angeles to Seattle)

Journal entry for August 2-4, 2010.

After getting out of the train station, I decided to walk the 12 blocks or so to the hostel instead of taking the bus. It was a pleasant night and I figured that walking would be a good way to get an introduction to the city.

City Hostel Seattle is located in an area of the city with lots of nightlife. The street is full of restaurants and bars. It is the nicest hostel I have ever visited. Everything looks very new and clean. There’s free internet, a movie room and a lounge room downstairs, another room with lots of books, DVDs and board games. Each dorm room is painted by a different local artist. There are about 3-4 shared restrooms on each floor.

I got into my room and found 2 girls from Korea who barely said ‘Hello’ back to me.

City Hostel Seattle

City Hostel Seattle

City Hostel Seattle

City Hostel Seattle

I dropped my bags and headed downstairs. In the movie room there were a group of Norwegian guys who were about to start watching American Psycho. I decided to stick around and more people joined us later on. This all brought back memories of my European trip in 2002. I hadn’t stayed in a hostel since then.

The next day, I woke up around 9am and contemplated getting up to go get the free breakfast (served until 10am), but decided to get some more sleep. I ended up waking up around 10:30, the Korean girls had already packed up and left. I made my way to Pike Place Market.

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market

The market was a little too crowded, making it hard to walk around. I got a ridiculously expensive Turkish kebab for lunch. Most of the food I found in the area was pretty pricey.

The original Starbucks store is also around the market. I didn’t go inside because there were way too many people.

Original Starbucks store

Original Starbucks store

Original Starbucks store

Original Starbucks store

I headed back to the hostel to grab something and met one of my new roommates for the night. Ann was from North Carolina and had gone to Seattle to see a Joanna Newsom concert. That’s being a dedicated fan.

I needed to get to REI to get a topographic map of the Olympic peninsula for the Shi Shi Beach hike. On the way there, I stopped by the Space Needle but didn’t feel like paying $18 to get to the top. I’m backpacking after all, and should be on a backpacking budget.

Space Needle

Space Needle

Science Fiction Museum

Science Fiction Museum

It was a long walk to REI. Good warm up for the upcoming hikes. This particular REI was the biggest and most impressive I have ever seen. It even had a outdoor mountain bike test trail. Despite the thousands of items inside the store, they didn’t have the map I was looking for in stock, but they did tell me that a map store by Pike Place Market had it in stock.

Back at the hostel, I run into Ann again and we had a long pleasant chat until midnight or so. She was trying to stay up late to fight jet lag. My two other roommates turned out to be brothers from Alamaba. Probably two of the nicest and most courteous guys I’ve ever met.

I didn’t sleep well that night. Tossed and turned a lot. I got up in time to have breakfast with my roommates. I went to the map store and got the map I need before heading to the Greyhound Terminal to catch the Dungeness Line bus to Port Angeles. I was very lucky because I had not made a reservation and there was only two seats left on the bus.

Next entry: Port Angeles, Washington
Part of the Pacific Northwest Trip Journal

 

Amtrak Coast Starlight (Los Angeles to Seattle)

Part of the Pacific Northwest Trip Journal

Journal entry for August 1-2, 2010.

Amtrak's Coast Starlight

Amtrak's Coast Starlight

The night before the trip, I had to wrap up a few tasks for work. It wasn’t until 8am that I was able to go to bed. After only one hour of sleep, I headed to the train station. It was OK though, I had a long 34-hour train ride to catch up on sleep. I was dead tired but very excited about what I expected to be an amazing trip.

I arrived at Los Angeles Union Station at 9:45am, 30 minutes before departure time. I thought 30 minutes would give me enough time to pick a nice window seat on the “nice” side of the train (the one with views of the ocean). I printed out my ticket, which I had purchased online, at the vending machine. There was a counter with the sign that said “Coast Starlight” but nobody was behind it, so I walked straight to the train. At the train car, the lady at the door asked me if I had checked in to get an assigned seat. Since I obviously had not, she assigned a seat for me right there. I headed for the upper deck and realized that I got an aisle sit on the side of the train not facing the coast. Great.

Coast Starlight

Coast Starlight

Coast Starlight

Coast Starlight

Spacious seats

Spacious seats

The seats were spacious and comfortable. I sat next to a girl who lived in Vancouver but was headed to Portland. She had all sorts of electronic gadgets to keep herself entertained: laptop, Nintendo DS, Ipod.

The train left 10 minutes late. I stayed awake for the first hour, enjoying the scenery. Ever since my trip to Europe 8 years ago, I have always enjoyed train travel. I really like to see the transition from place to place and people going about their everyday lives. After the first hour, I dozed off from time to time. Around noon they started calling in people to the dining car. Apparently someone had walked by to take appointments while I was sleeping. Every 15 minutes they would call in a new group of passengers. I went to the store to get a muffin and some apple juice for lunch.

View from my seat

View from my seat

At around 1pm, the train passed by the Santa Barbara area, which is very beautiful. Lots of surfers in the ocean. It was a cloudy day, which is rare for this time of the year. Despite being called the “Coast” Starlight, you don’t really get to see a lot of coast, with this stretch being the highlight and one of the exceptions.

Santa Barbara area

Santa Barbara area

At around 4:30pm, a lady came by to take reservations for dinner. Since I was in the last car of the train, by the time she came by all the prime time slots (6pm-8pm) were already taken. She told me I could either take the 5pm slot, or wait until 8:30pm when no reservations would be needed. I decided for the latter.

The train arrived at San Jose 20 minutes early at 8:10pm. It was going to be a 30-minute stop. I got off the train to walk around the station for a bit.

San Jose Station

San Jose Station

Back on the train, I wondered when they would make the last call for the dining car. At 8:50pm I went to ask and was told that it was already closed. They must have announced the last call while I was off the train. I had no choice but to go to the store again and get a pretty uneventful ham & cheese sandwich.

I felt asleep around 10:30pm. I wished the seats would recline a little more, which they could easily do since there is so much space in between rows. My foot/leg rest was also also broken (it wouldn’t stay in position), which made it a little uncomfortable.

Aside from waking up a few times to switch positions, I slept relatively OK, probably due to me being very tired. I woke up around 7am. The train made a lengthy stop at Klamath Falls, Oregon. I took the chance to go out and enjoy the fresh morning air.

Klamath Falls, Oregon

Klamath Falls, Oregon

Back on the train, and just like the previous day, I got a blueberry muffin for breakfast. I enjoyed it while seating in the lounge car, which has taller windows for a more panoramic view. For the next few hours, I enjoyed my book while meeting and talking to a couple of passengers. One guy was traveling around the country by train, while another lady was going back to Vancouver after visiting family members in LA. The scenery was amazing in this part of Oregon. Big lakes surrounded by huge mountain ranges. In one section the train went through some mountains and passed through about 20 tunnels.

I realized once again that I missed my chance to make an appointment for the dining car. There was no way I was going to eat that ham & cheese sandwich from the store again. I took a seat in the lounge car right by the dining car entrance and waited patiently for last call at 2:15pm. I shared my dining car table with an older gentleman who had decided on a whim to buy a train ticket and go to Montana. Also at my table were to ladies who were going to Portland to visit relatives. The burger I ordered was pretty good. I also got ice tea and some Häagen-Dazs ice cream for dessert. The bill was $9.75, not bad.

The train arrived to Portland 45 minutes early.

Portland Station

Portland Station

Portland Station

Portland Station

A lot of people got off at Portland, which meant that I could pick any seat I wanted. I enjoyed the last stretch, with Mount Rainier to the east, and expensive beach neighborhoods to the west.

Mount Rainier

Mount Rainier

Tacoma area

Tacoma area

Prior to the trip, I had read many horror stories of the Coast Starlight being always late, sometimes for as much as 15 hours. I guess I was lucky since the train arrived at Seattle 15 minutes early. All in all, it was a very enjoyable and relaxing experience. The food was decent and I had fun meeting and chatting with different people.

Seattle Amtrak Station

Seattle Amtrak Station

More information about Amtrak’s Coast Starlight:
Official Amtrak Website – Including maps, brochures, and online ticket purchase.
Trainweb.com – Has many travelogues and pictures from passengers.

Part of the Pacific Northwest Trip Journal
Next entry: Seattle, Washington

Pacific Northwest Trip Journal

Olympic Coast

Olympic Coast

Planning
Packing List

Amtrak Coast Starlight (Los Angeles to Seattle)
Seattle, Washington
Port Angeles, Washington
Lake Ozette to Shi Shi Beach Hike
    Day 1 – Lake Ozette to Ozette River Crossing
    Day 2 – Ozette River Crossing to Shi Shi Beach
    Day 3 – Shi Shi Beach and Hitchhiking to Port Angeles
Victoria, BC, Canada
West Coast Trail
    Day 1 – Pachena Bay to Darling River
    Day 2 – Darling River to Tsusiat Falls
    Day 3 – Tsusiat Falls to Carmanah Point
    Day 4 – Carmanah Point to Camper Bay
    Day 5 – Camper Bay to Thrasher Cove
    Day 6 – Thrasher Cove to Gordon River

West Coast Trail

West Coast Trail

West Coast Trail – Planning

West Coast Trail Journal Index
Part of the Pacific Northwest Trip Journal

Inspiration

Amtrak's Coast Starlight

Amtrak's Coast Starlight

While planning for the John Muir Trail, I came to realize that it was consistently rated as one of the top hikes in the world. Another hike that appeared a lot of in different lists, sometimes even as #1, was the West Coast Trail. I’ve also have been wanting to ride the Amtrak Coast Starlight train from Los Angeles to Seattle for quite some time. I always enjoyed train rides, and seeing the slow transition between different cities and regions. A couple of years ago I also saw some amazing pictures of Shi Shi Beach (here and here) in the State of Washington and have been wanting ever since to see it in person.

This trip provided a great opportunity to combine everything into one amazing journey.

Itinerary

I’ll taking the Coast Starlight from LA to Seattle, rent a car there, drive to Olympic National Park in the coast of Washington, do the “Ozette Lake to Shi Shi Beach” hike. Drive to Port Angeles, take the ferry to Victoria, BC, Canada. Enjoy the city for a couple of days before starting the West Coast Trail. My plan is to take 7 days to complete the hike, and then fly back from Victoria to LA. I should take a little bit under 3 weeks to do all this.

The Lake Ozette to Shi Shi Beach is a little bit of a problem because once I finish, I’ll need to find a way to get back to my car at the trailhead. It doesn’t appear to be any public transportation in the area. Maybe I’ll have to hitch a ride, or another option is to hike back to Lake Ozette which should take 1 1/2 days.

WCT Permit

There are two ways to reserve a permit, either online on Parks Canada website, or by calling their office between 9am to 5pm. Reservations can be made up 3 months prior to the start date, starting on the first day of that month. Since I want to start the hike on Thursday August 12, 2010, the earliest I can reserve is June 1, 2010.

Since you can’t call their office until 9am, I stayed up late the night before to see if online reservations would open at midnight. Sure enough, I was able to reserve online and ended up paying CAD 127.50 for the permit plus a CAD 26.67 reservation fee. I’m not sure if I could have saved the reservation fee by waiting until 9am and getting the permit by phone. From what I’ve heard, there’s very high demand for the limited permits (60 total each day, starting from either trailhead) and given that people can reserve online starting at midnight, I didn’t want to run the risk.

I will be starting from Pachena Bay, the northern trailhead.

Ozette Lake to Shi Shi Beach Permit

I called the Olympic Nation Park to get my Wilderness Camping Permit. The first night I’ll be camping at the site north of Ozette River, and the following night at Shi Shi Beach. I want to thank Josh, the ranger I talked to on the phone, who was very courteous and helpful.

What To Bring

My West Coast Trail Packing List is very similar to the John Muir Trail Packing List I used last year. Once again I’ll be wearing the New Balance 875 I took to the JMT.

West Coast Trail Journal Index
Part of the Pacific Northwest Trip Journal

Sequoia and Yosemite National Parks in April

During this trip I returned to two places I visited in 2009: Sequoia National Park and Yosemite National Park. My dad was visiting and he had liked the pictures I took in 2009. Along with my sister, we decided to make this 3-day road trip. Without knowing, we visited during National Parks Week (April 17-25, 2010) so we didn’t have to pay entrance fees to either park.

Sequoia National Park was very different from last year once we got close to General Sherman Tree and Lodgepole: it was mostly covered in snow. The short trail from the parking lot to General Sherman was full of ice and snow. Our plan was hike the Congress Trail but decided not to since the trail was barely visible (only footprints in the snow) and most sign posts were buried in snow.

Melting ice on trees

Melting ice on trees

Trail to General Sherman

Trail to General Sherman

Trail to General Sherman

Trail to General Sherman

Sequoia National Park

Sequoia National Park

General Sherman

General Sherman

Snow covered trails

Snow covered trails

Road to parking lot north of General Sherman

Road to parking lot north of General Sherman

Sequioa National Park

Sequioa National Park

No dogs allowed

No dogs allowed

Giant Sequoias

Giant Sequoias

Sequoia National Park

Sequoia National Park

Sequoia National Park

Sequoia National Park

Yosemite Valley was also different. I took a bus to get into the valley to start the JMT last year. The bus entered the park from the east but this time we entered from the southern entrance. When we came out of a long tunnel through a mountain, we were treated to a spectacular view. From the vantage point, we could see El Capitan, Half Dome, Bridalveil Falls, and the valley.

Yosemite National Park entrace

Yosemite National Park entrace

El Capitan, Half Dome, and Bridalveil Falls

El Capitan, Half Dome, and Bridalveil Falls

Bridalveil Falls

Bridalveil Falls

El Capitan

El Capitan

The valley floor was full of people. We did the first couple of miles of the John Muir Trail, stopping short of Nevada Fall before turning back. There were a couple of spots on the trail that were covered in snow. The waterfalls were in full force, unlike when I saw them late summer last year.

Start of John Muir Trail

Start of John Muir Trail

Vernal Fall

Vernal Fall

Vernal Fall

Vernal Fall

Parts of the trail were covered in snow

Parts of the trail were covered in snow

Nevada Fall

Nevada Fall

10 Tips for Climbing Half Dome at Yosemite

Half Dome cables

Half Dome cables

1Starting in 2010, hiking Half Dome will require a permit. You can reserve a permit up to 4 months in advance on the National Park Service website.

2 If you are not used to hiking long distances or if you are not in good shape, I’d try not do the whole hike up and down from Yosemite Valley (16 miles)  in one day. Going up 5000 feet in 8 miles is pretty rough. By the time you get to the cables you might already be very tired, and after the summit you’ll still have to go down 5000 feet. Instead, I’d hike up to Little Yosemite Valley or around the Half Dome trail junction the first day, camp there, and then summit Half Dome early the next morning, before the crowds get there. This would require a wilderness permit and some advanced planning, but it’d be a more enjoyable trip.

3 There was a big pile of used gloves on the base of the cables, but I’d get some cheap gloves that fits you before the trip. I bought a pair of $3 gloves at the Home Depot. They had rubber on the inside and provided great grip on the cables.

4 Make sure you bring a lot of water, or a way to purify it on the trail. I think for a 16-mile hike you’d need about a gallon. Also, keep in mind that I didn’t find any water after Little Yosemite Valley, so if you need to purify, make sure you get plenty there.

5 Wear shoes with soles that have very good grip. The granite has been polished by the hundreds of people who step on it every day and can be a bit slippery.

6 Bring a headlamp or flashlight just in case you take longer than expected and need to hike in the dark.

7 Don’t climb the cables when there’s any possibility of a storm. Not worth risking your life and you can always do it at a later date. There have been many accidents (some deadly) in the past during storms.

8 Bring warm clothes if there’s a possibility you’ll be hiking during sunrise or sunset. Temperatures can go down quickly during sunsets.

9 Wear plenty of sunscreen and wear a hat. The sun can be pretty punishing at the summit.

10 Once on the cables, take your time, don’t rush. Don’t try to pass the people ahead of you. Be cordial to the people going in the opposite direction. If you are struggling, let the people behind pass you, but don’t feel pressure to have to go faster than you are comfortable. Always go at your own pace. On the same token, don’t rush the people ahead of you. Offer them encouragement if they are struggling.

More crowded on my way down

Crowded cables